Guide to Ballard, Seattle

Ballard: Boats, Beaches, and Buzzy Restaurants

In between the trendy restaurants and popular bars of Ballard Avenue, the long history of the neighborhood as a Scandinavian fishing village still shows through in museums, sites, and old-school dive bars. With a long, sandy beach running along the west side, a popular business district, and some of the only high-end hotels in the city outside Downtown, it shows off the city’s highlights.

Naomi Tomky
5 June 2023

The industrial past and fishing village roots of Ballard, about 15 minutes straight north of downtown, barely peek through the rows of hot new restaurants and cool bars. But those rough edges and pieces of preservation give the neighborhood the alluring texture that makes it beautiful and fun to explore, day and night. Ballard began the 20th century as its own town, and while it joined Seattle shortly thereafter, it has always maintained an independent streak – and that self-sufficiency makes it an easy place to use as a home base for exploring the city. One of the city’s main public beaches, Golden Gardens Park, runs up the west edge of the neighborhood, while the Lake Washington Shipping Canal creates the southern border, including the entrance to the fascinating Ballard Locks. Downtown Ballard piles upscale boutiques, unique small businesses, and more than a dozen breweries into its boisterous streets, while incredible restaurants dot the neighborhood’s quieter northern reaches. Throughout the area, signs of the Scandinavian immigrants that once settled here persevere, including at the National Nordic Museum, which also explains that history.

Getting to Ballard

Ballard sits in the Northwest corner of the city, directly north of downtown, and a number of bus routes keep it well connected to the center. The quickest way to the area is the Rapid Ride D line, which has its own lane, and thus avoids any traffic. However, it goes straight north on 15th Avenue NW, which makes it a long walk to the center of Ballard Avenue with any luggage and requires a transfer to further reaches, like the Nordic Museum (Route 29 or 44) or Golden Gardens (Route 45, then a walk down the stairs). Route 40 connects South Lake Union to Downtown Ballard, and North Ballard, while the 18X does the same from Downtown Seattle. The 17X runs from Downtown Seattle through Downtown Ballard, past the Nordic Museum, and onto Golden Gardens. Route 44 connects the University District, Fremont, and points east to Downtown Ballard and the Nordic Museum.

Driving from downtown is much simpler: just head straight north on Elliott Way, which turns into 15th Avenue Northwest. Without traffic, it takes about 15 minutes, but this route crosses the Ballard Bridge, so can hit delays when the bridge goes up to allow boats through.

What to see and do in Ballard

The Ballard Locks

Roam the Locks with a Ranger

Check in to see when the Army Corps of Engineers offers its daily free tours, where they explain the history, science, and purpose of the locks. The hour-long tours add fascinating context and show off the hidden features of the complex.

This marvel of maritime engineering makes for a surprising and delightful attraction – it turns out that watching boats float up and down with the changing water levels in the Lake Washington Ship Canals is mesmerizing for kids and adults alike. You enter through a botanical garden, and there’s a series of underwater windows that allow visitors to view the salmon navigating through the locks.

National Nordic Museum

The modern Scandinavian design makes this building stand out in Ballard, but the information here fits into the neighborhood’s history. The main exhibit explains 12,000 years of Nordic history, including how the people of Norway and Sweden ended up making a home in this Seattle neighborhood while traveling exhibits cover music, art, culture, and more from the Nordic countries and regions.

Golden Gardens Park

One of Seattle’s main saltwater public beaches, this stretch of sand fills up with picnickers and parties – even when the weather isn’t perfect. Thankfully, there’s plenty of space on the beach for everyone, from the volleyball players to the brave swimmers stepping into the ice-cold water. A playground, walking trail, dog park, and wetlands round out the facilities – and at night, bonfire gatherings light up the beach.

Brewery Crawl

My children would be shocked to learn that some breweries don’t allow kids, they consider them their personal play place – and can rank the root beers, games, and pretzels that various ones offer for non-drinkers.

More than a dozen breweries crowd the Ballard Brewery District, serving everything from smoked and oak-aged cherry adambier to full slates of hoppy Northwest IPAs. Most allow children and dogs and serve as a place for locals to meet friends and hang out – especially on sunny weekend afternoons. Reuben’s Brews and Stoup Brewing offer the most typical experience and make a good place to start exploring.

Where to Eat in Ballard

Downtown Ballard’s restaurants serve just about any taste or budget, starting with one of the stars of Pacific Northwest cuisine, seafood restaurant Walrus and the Carpenter, at the south end of Ballard Avenue. Other dinner highlights include Mexican steakhouse Asadero, romantic Italian spot San Fermo, and the Thai cuisine at Pestle Rock, while cafes and takeout spots like Sabine Café and Rachel’s Bagels and Burritos keep the mornings covered. Those heading out to the beach can pop into Secret Congee for modern rice soups or grab sandwiches from Un Bien for a picnic. The Lebanese food at Café Munir and pizza at Delancey make the case for getting out into North Ballard, as do the snacks and sandwiches at butcher shop Beast and Cleaver.

A Shopping Guide to Ballard

The boutiques on Ballard Avenue and Market Street sell Northwest and artisan versions of just about anything a person could need. Clover Toys and Blumenkinder cater to kids with handcrafted toys and clothes, while the games at Mox and books at Secret Garden work for both young and old. Standard Goods shows off all kinds of Seattle-made stuff for adults, many of which make great gifts and souvenirs. You’ll find more gifts at Lucca Great Finds, Annie’s Art & Frame, and Good and Well Supply Co. The Northwest’s love of music comes through at Sonic Boom Records, and its outdoor spirit at Kavu, Filson, and Ascent.

Where to Stay in Ballard

Ballard has two hotels, both under the same ownership and with many of the same advantages. The higher-end Hotel Ballard is a traditional hotel, while the smaller Ballard Inn is a European-style boutique with old-world charm – meaning some rooms share bath facilities. Both face onto Ballard Avenue, putting guests right in the middle of the neighborhood’s business district and having access to the Olympic Athletic Center and Spa attached to the Hotel Ballard.

Who Should Stay in Ballard

While downtown hotels set up visitors to see the sites, Ballard hotels set them up for seeing daily life. Young adults and people hoping to see a bit of local life will find this a great place to understand a typical Seattle neighborhood and the rhythms of daily life – while also keeping them close to some of the best restaurants and most fun bars.

About the author

Naomi TomkyAward-winning Seattle-based writer Naomi Tomky explores her hometown and the world with a hungry eye, digging into the intersections of food, culture, and travel. Find her on the shelves of your local bookstore as the author of The Pacific Northwest Seafood Cookbook and Fodor's Seattle.